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Siem Riep, Cambodia #s 2-5
Originally posted on sciy.org by Ron Anastasia on Tue 19 Dec 2006 12:53 PM PST
Here are a few more of the email updates I've been receiving from a friend who's now
traveling in SouthEast Asia. His writing is so vividly "on the spot"
that I thought to share it here on SCIY. ~ ron
Siem Riep, Cambodia #2
f. mark turcotte <f_mark_turcotte@hotmail.com>Dec 9, 2006
Dear Friends,
Nearby (4 km. north) is the larger walled city of Angkor Thom. Within its 10 sq. km. area lies Bayon, a three tiered temple best know for its collection of 54 gothic towers decorated with 216 coldly smiling enormous faces of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara. Below on the first level are 16 intricate bas-relief panels relaying among other things naval battles, linga (phallic symbol) worship, every-day life and more. Amazing.
To the north of this is the Terrace of Elephants, a 350 meter long giant viewing stand for public ceremonies and a base for the king's grand audience hall. Below, carved into the wall is a life-size procession of elephants.
To the rear is yet more forest with huge trees, a welcome place to escape the noon-day heat and find one's way to Preah Palilay, one of the most atmospheric temples in Angkor Thom. That's because in its quiet way, it captures the scenic look of giant tree roots intertwined in union with the temple itself.... nature embracing man's monument and ultimately destroying it. But most famous of all in this respect is Ta Prom. The look here is one of the jungle swallowing man's creations... crumbling walls and towers locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast root systems. Most famous of these is the "Tomb Raider" tree where Angelina Jolie picked a jasmine flower before falling through the earth into...............
Love,
Mark
___________________________
Siem Riep, Cambodia #3
f. mark turcotte <f_mark_turcotte@hotmail.com>
Dec 10, 2006
Dear Friends,
One of the consequences of America's War in Viet Nam was its bleed-over into Laos and Cambodia. Here it resulted in among other things the carpet
bombing by B-52´s, killing as estimated 250,000 Cambodian civilians. What followed after the overthrow of Norodomn Sihanouk´s government was the Khmer Rouge regime with the infamous Pol Pot and his "killing fields".
This was not just a figure of speech, but a literal reality. The cities
were emptied and their inhabitants sent to the countryside to do extreme
manual labor for up to 15 hrs./day. Those who could not, and those who
opposed were summarily executed. Millions died. That´s why 40% of
Cambodia´s population is under the age of 18. Tens of thousands more had arms and legs blown off by land mines before Viet Nam´s communist army could chase Pol Pot into the hills along the Thai Border and end this human nightmare.
I mention this because it´s such an extreme counterpoint to the grandeur and beauty of Angkor. In the countryside, there are still tens of thousands of unexploded land mines One does not stray off well trodden paths.
Far, far away from Siem Riep............ 2hrs. over a rough and then yet
rougher dirt road lies Kbal Spean. This is a spectacularly carved under
water riverbed, set deep in the jungle. Once there, it´s a pretty path
that winds uphill to the site, more commonly known as River of a Thousand
Lingas. Here, through the dappled sunlight are repeating lingas, carved
into the stone, under water. Further along are impressive carvings of
Vishnu and Shiva with his consort Uma. If one goes early enough in the day, it's possible to encounter only a few hardy hikers and thus have a magical, ethereal experience. On the way back down stream, one can cool off under the small but beautiful waterfall. (I chose to take the plunge upstream and then slowly walk back down hill to my moto-man for our return to Siem Riep.
Namaste,
Mark
___________________________
Siem Riep, Cambodia #4
f. mark turcotte <f_mark_turcotte@hotmail.com>
Dec 13, 2006
Dear Friends,
Like the satisfaction that comes from enjoying a superbly prepared gourmet feast, I feel wonderfully satisfied and fulfilled by my 3 days of visits to the Angkor temples. A few days ago I met someone at a cafe, got talking, and together we decided to do something different.
We would bike down along the river that empties into the lake Tonle Sap, an easy wonderful day trip.
After leaving the dusty and noisy environs of the city, we biked casually across the flat landscape. As city turned to country, the houses changed from concrete to bamboo, often built up upon stilts along the river. Water wheels slowly fed water to mini irrigation systems. The daily business of just being human was all on display directly along the roadside.
A man taking his moto apart, a woman chopping vegetables, naked boys swimming in the river, pigs & chickens scavenging scraps of food below the houses above.
Midway to the lake, rice fields appeared with grazing water buffalos in water up to their bellies. White egrets standing on their backs picking of insects.
Later on where the river emptied into the lake, we hired a boat for $7 to take us further into the delta area to visit the "floating village" of Chong Kneas (nothing at all like the houseboats of Sausilito, CA).
When we suddenly stopped far from the shore of the lake, I asked why. The answer quickly appeared. A few small canoes came bearing gifts...... They guessed from all our traveling we'd be thirsty, so they were there to help us out. After that we got on our way again to return and visit the "fish farm".
I had supposed something covering acres. In fact, it covered a few sq. ft. and was connected to a floating restaurant.....wasn't that convenient. Even more interesting were dozens of crocodiles, also in a small enclosure, the largest 6'-7' long. I was told they got sold.....for thousands of dollars.
On the trip back to Siem Riep, I realized I was getting a bit sun-burned, sweaty and tired. And yet, fully pleased by this with day-trip away from the temples.
Love,
Mark
___________________________
Siem Riep, Cambodia #5
f. mark turcotte <f_mark_turcotte@hotmail.com>
Dec 12, 2006
Dear Friends,
Today I met a German journalist who works for Die Ziet. He's spent many months covering the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan and wasn't in bed with .......sorry....... wasn't embedded with American troops. He has written extensively about what he's seen there. We immediately had a good "connection". At the end of an hour's conversation, this is what I said to him.
When we are both in the same place, at the same time and together we witness something happening....... what you see and what I see are not necessarily the same thing.
If I can tell you what I saw, share with you my truth such as I see it and you too can do the same....... and we can hopefully both hear and understand each other's "truths"/perspectives, different as they may be, then there is reason to be hopeful in this sometimes painful world.
Being with each other and acting this way is one of the biggest gifts we can give to each other.
Love,
Mark
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